"Chance is always powerful. Let your hook be always cast; 
"Our tradition is that of the first man who sneaked away
to the creek when the tribe did not really need fish."
Roderick Haig-Brown, "A river never sleeps" 1946
This morning, like most, the beach is awaking to the slumbering footsteps of blackened fishermen arriving one by one fully outfitted for the day. On a good weather day maybe three or four 'boys' will tote the same cache of antiquated snorkel gear; a small recovered styrofoam net float, about 25 feet of cord and a couple of knifes that is all stowed in a small vibrant colored mesh bag that hangs from broad shoulders.
In their hands they carry a four foot 1/4 inch metal rod with a wooden dowel forced onto the end making a solid handle. On the tip a steel hardened barbed hook is "safety wired" to the lance by running wire through the eyelet, wrapping it multiple times around that shaft, and then finishing it off by threading the wire between the hook and the shaft, the perfect gaffe is ready to go.
When in season, lobsters that back under ledges when spotted will give away their location by extending antenna's from their retreat, you can focus on that movement and the gaff will easily find the mark providing a profit or a great meal. Their catch is almost always about selling to restaurants on the beach when it comes to lobsters.
When the "langosta" are gone, the target then becomes the octopus that usually use the same areas to retreat but are tucked even deeper under an overhang or into a very small crevasse. The swimmers usually dive to those spots, hang upside down, try to get a glimpse of activity and then strike. The octopus is the easier of the catch and provides numerous opportunities during an outing.
Some years ago you would see many 'clorox bottles' discarded on beach's that were being fished for "pulpo." These didn't come from tossed trash, but the contents were diluted, a nozzle was attached to the end and divers squirted the liquid into hiding places to provoke the prey to make a run for it. I don't see that much anymore, but I still see some of those bottles around giving an indication that this may still persist, but rarely.
'Some people go to church and think about fishing, others
go fishing and think about God.'
The other object in hand has now become the "spear gun." It has replaced most other homemade concoctions and even the "gaffe" is more like a 'side arm' now. The spear gun is now at the top of the arsenal, it is drawn, loaded and cradled just beneath the body of the swimmer. When in deep water the tip is held downwards in anticipation of a rapid dive to get into firing distance. Trailing, usually attached to the ankle, behind the swimmer is a length of cord with the mesh bag attached to the end and the float secured about 3 feet up the lanyard. This allows for the catch to be stored, in that bag, and helps to keep legs and arms free thus preventing entanglements while also preserving your catch.
Many times during a good fishing day you will only see the wave of a flipper just before a dive and the subsequent float taking a position above the attack. The float never goes beneath the water line, adjustments can be made when fishing in deeper locations.
These 'boys' have their own territories when it comes to their pursuit, but there is a level of intensity and concentration among them that reflects, this is a job...I'm not here for fun. Newcomers are frowned upon, but accepted after a long period of scrutiny, especially if he is not a national. Each day they gauge the current and the wind direction, enter the water with a definite route in mind and return to a favorite rock outcrop near shore to clean and ready their catch for sale.
It took me a few years to gain some acceptance with those fishermen, that was just on land. But later I felt comfortable to be in the water with them at the same time but I never encroached in areas they were intensely working. Just a little 'ola' at times when they were walking down the beach was the most accepted interaction.
"What the hell. Hey, hey hey!
" I was out about 300 feet when I felt this pull on my fins. For some reason I thought yelling aloud was going to stop it. I kicked frantically for a short distance, turned with my spear gun, took a breath and told myself to relax.
When on top in open ocean it occasionally happens that you bump into something, something that gives you a little chill, but turns out to be some debris or vegetation floating along side of you. The water was turbulent that day and I was "stalking" my favorite area very cautiously trying not to miss any easy opportunity for a hit.
Fish don't see very well in stirred up water, just like us, and I have had them swim right up to my spear tip before we both freaked out and went the other way. On this this day the conditions only provided about 4 feet of vision.
"Relax", I said.
"Dammit." Now, more rapid kicking!
"What the hell."My head popped up, I was kicking like a wild man, both of my fins were being pulled this time and my body was starting to move more to an upright position. One more violent kick and I was free. I thought better of swimming away like "fleeting prey" I would just hold my ground and try to figure out what to do next. I heard some splashing movement over my shoulder and spun around with a little terror on my face.
"Es la pesca buena, amigo?"
Do you remember that laugh you use when you now are safe from something or some event that you may have misconstrued and been put into a panic because of it? Those are the greatest laughs of all ..........and now I was sharing that 'laugh' with a grinning face that I recognized as one of the 'boy' that plied their trade in the area, he got me good.
I actually felt honored, somewhat later, to find it was Hector trailing me and laughing as loud as possible without ingesting liters of salt water. He knew that he had scared the crap out of me by pulling my flippers and then disappearing , but this was more like a prank among friends then something malicious.
In one of his hands he had his own flipper to show me in his most convincing fashion, I got you.
I stopped my laugh, furrowed the brow and with eyes squinted gave that look, you bastard. Then we both started laughing again. We had seen each other many times but this was my first real 'communication' with him. After, I knew that when he walked by my palapa in the mornings that his turning of the head to acknowledge me or give me a thumbs up was the sign that we were now amigos, bound by the pursuit of "watery inhabitants" but for different reasons. I had just added another friend in the area and like many before him it was because I shared interests, this one was fishing.
"Rivers and the inhabitants of the watery elements are made for wise men to contemplate
and for fools to pass by without consideration."
Izaac Walton
'I've never seen any fish out there, the snorkeling here is non-existent.'
I am always excited when I hear some visitor complain about any area that I enjoy, it usually means they are moving on soon and that saves me precious time trying to convince them to do so.
It takes no more than 20 paces from my palapa to 'wet a line' or to snorkel about in hopes of finding 'a little action,' but in the years I spent in the area most people, including locals, knew of many areas that offered a better chance of encountering fish than the beaches of Xcalacoco. But I was always curious why so many people believed there were no fish to be caught or even observed in the area. Maybe it was more about the conditions and the persistent on shore wind that would lift the tops of waves and plaster everything with a moist salty mask or it could be that even when these winds subsided the shallow shoreline was chopped up so badly that you couldn't see you feet in two feet of water? Either way, I knew they were there and it just became a matter of timing...like all fishing. Also, who really cares if a "game fish" is near? Some of favorite times in the water were just observing the variety, trying to repeat their names in my head and looking for something I had never seen before. The hunt wasn't always on and the vast majority of located fish had nothing to do with taking one, just enjoying them.
I decided to "snag a few photos that represent the various fish that I have added to my "tick list" while at Xcalacoco. I have seen many of these in other areas, some in much greater numbers, but these are just some of the species I have viewed over the years only a few paces from my palapa. This is a little reply to those that have 'had difficulties' with their snorkel experiences there and decided to move on.
Of all the fish one might encounter "Pez Mariposa's", angelfishes, may pack the most tranquility per pound. Each time I encounter one, whether it is a French, Gray, Queen or a Rock Beauty their often gaudy colors are a welcome encounter. The angel fish has very high levels of curiosity and the way they flutter from area to area helps create a spellbinder scene for me.
It has been demonstrated many times that "Morena's", morays, are not as dangerous and menacing as their appearance, but that isn't enough for me. They are always a surprise when they make themselves known, usually peering from a dark hiding spot and then emerging with jaws agape. When a friend borrowed my spear gun, he shot a small fish and while retrieving it, out stormed a 5 foot moray. Yes it did pluck his fish right off the end of the barbed shaft and caused my friend to scream like a baby and exit the water like a lightening bolt. The green and the spotted are the most common in the area.
Grunts, aka, "pez Maya" or cha-chi are numerous everywhere, as are goat fish and
all types of damselfishes like the ever present and constantly feeding Sergeant major.
Lots of then can be taken from shore if you are good at spotting them in the shallows and even better with a throw net.
Pez loro, parrotfishes, are on the favorites list of almost everyone.
The Stoplight, Queen and Rainbow are common in the area. The Blue is a little more difficult to find but worth the wait. All of the loro's have different color phases and can be easily confused with each other with out keen observation and identification.
The locals call him "pez San Pedro", he is the peacock flounder. Very tasty by the way.
You cant tell that "Mero", groupers, don't know when you are after them, a quick look and then off to the deepest crack they can find is usually what happens.
Mero negro, mero de aleta amarilla and mero tiger are
all a prized food fish and put up a real struggle when caught.
When you are snorkeling around a large school of fish, take a quick look over your shoulder,
you might find the "Great" barracuda doing the same. It is all about
the ambush and the stalking. Don't take a large one.
The smaller are better and safer for eating. By the way, they are a gas on a "hand line."
If you haven't seen a green turtle, you just aren't trying.
Try shallow weeded areas first, then deep sandy bottoms for your best chances.
The filefish, "Pez Lima," can be a very difficult find,
but my favorite is the "scrawled filefish" with the pygmy filefish providing a rare glimpse.
Porcupinefish, "Puercoespin" and "Pez Globo" are common. Try to resist taking back as a sovenior, I don't think having a dried fish in your den is an 'design element.'
When Latinos are fishing in the Midwest they catch a rough fish we
call a "sheep head" and they call "Morrida." It is also called the black margate and again it is very tasty. It is in the grunt family.
The porkfish can reach to over a foot and is in the grunt family.
One look at this little guy and it screams 'don't touch me!'
I will add to that by saying "don't tread on me."
The scorpionfish loves to lurk at shallow ledges
that border the ocean and the beach,
be careful when entering a flat looking area with small overhangs.
Don't be such a coward, they taste great and don't have any claws.
The tell tale give a way is seeing them retreat under a rock,
leave an antenna exposed and start waving it around
to detect predators. Looking over the side of an inflatable,
with a mask on, is a good way to spot them in the shallows.
Follow that with a short dive, a little gaffing and alot of butter.
"Raya Pinta's, Pastinca del Caribe and raya amarilla are common.
The "Spotted Eagle Ray" with it's wide and box like facial features ,
swimming right at you, is not to be avoided if you ever have that chance.
The jacks, or "Jurel" are everyway, esp in the evening.
The ride the waves, dart from shelter to open water and charge up
and down the shore with a mission, find food.
These include the bar jack, yellow, horse-eye, crevalle, african pompano
and the greater amberjack. Hang on, I have had them
break a muskie rod and rip right off the end of a metal spear head.
The snapper. Never pass up a chance to add this
great fighter and fryer to your stringer.
The triggerfish, "Pez Gatillo", is rare in the shallows
around Xcalacoco, but I have seen a few .
"Pez Trompeta" or the trumpetfish.
The spanish hogfish is a great find and "Boquinette"is prized for their taste.
So, to those, and I know that does not include any reader here; 'Contemplate those watery elements' and do no pass without consideration.' More to come about 'really fishing' on later blog's.
1 comment:
Great pictures. I am enjoying reading your stories. I hope you can share many more.
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